Locomotives Tips
Do you have locomotive tips to share? Email them to me here.
Window Glass
    Don't use super glue (cyanoacrylate) for this, as it will fog the window material.  White glue, like Elmer's, will work, though it does not really stick well to plastic, and you may have to reapply the window to the model from time to time.  For a more permanent solution, go to a hobby shop that has model airplanes, and get some "canopy cement."  This is a glue that will attach the plastic window glass to a model while leaving the glass clear.  The glue doesn't know that it is being used on a train and not an airplane, and the merchant who sells it won't care.  -Frederick Monsimer 
 Graffiti
    You know, I realized a great way to make graffiti without buying those expensive decals. I use White-out (a correction pen), the finer the tip the better. I even made up a cool scene with this- I painted an HO car, parked it in front of a university, and put an angry teacher beside it, like one of his students painted it! -asparuh frangov (viper) 
 Windows
    Instead of using windows included in a kit or making your own from styrene ( clear ) use Sobo glue. Take a plastic cup, and on the bottom pour some Sobo glue. Take a toothpick and spread a little around the edges of the opening. Then, taking as much as you can, spread it over the window, making sure to keep it level. Let it dry overnight and it will be clear and look like a real window!!! -Paul  
 Details, Details
    When modeling any Norfolk Southern locomotive, and you want to super detail it with ready made parts ( yes, I do know someone who builds ALL of his loco's and cars from scratch!), put all of the Cannon and Company parts that are made for the loco you are modeling on the locomotive. I found that the more you add, the better it looks! -Paul  
 Unless You're The Lead Dog
    In prototype railroading, particularly in olden days, it was practice to keep the weakest engine in the lead, to prevent it from being overloaded (That way you can only do the work of your smallest-outputting engine). In modeling, you can go two ways: That way, or keep the heaviest, most powerful engine in front so that a small, weak one is not shoved off the rails on curves.  -Stephen 
 Kadee Height
    When putting your own Kadee draft gear pocket on the Proto 2000 Northeastern (My example that I worked on) caboose, if you install the centering spring above the coupler,  the coupler will ride too low. Therefore, you should put the centering spring UNDER the  coupler to achieve a little more height. This is why one should ALWAYS test fit the  coupler's height before gluing or screwing the pocket together or to the frame!  -Stephen 
 Antennas
 
    Cat whiskers . . . really. Cut to a length to suit scale. They have a taper that lends itself to realism.  -Bob Mon 
 Kinder, More Gentle Antennas
    Use the leftover plastic 'trees' that other model parts are attached to.  Break off one long piece about 4"-5" long. Hold this piece by both ends about 4 inches  or so above a lighted candle or other heat source. (candle works best).  As the  plastic heats up and begins to soften, pull the ends in opposite directions.  Be  ready!  
The plastic gets to the soft stage all of a sudden, so it may take some practice to get good hairlike strands, but the end result is well worth the practice it takes. Once the plastic cools, simply trim the strand to the desired length. You will find that these new antennas even have a whip/spring like effect and are pretty sturdy. -Jeff Meyer
 Pin Stripe
    To do very fine pin striping on diesel engines, around signs, on storage tanks, and motor trucks or their trailers. 
Go to a sewing center and select a color and size (diameter) of sewing thread that would best match the width of stripe needed. #60 cotton is the heaviest. It looks like the cable on a 200 ton wreck crane. Then thread is graduated on down to very fine silk which looks about like a one inch wide stripe, (.01148" in HO) Cotton thread is 'fuzzy', so set up for alignment first, then the very last thing before you lay the thread in place, put a few drops of clear gloss or matte finish , as desired, on a corner of a rag and quickly draw a length of the thread through it and place on the item. Let dry the appropriate length of time. My father used a small camel hair brush to apply a 'base' of clear along the side of a passenger car, wiped the thread, placed the thread, set the weights and waited until the next day to trim off the excess.
Dad made a jig with 8p nails. Two along the length of the car, and one against the end. He nailed a block of wood at right angle (top to bottom) and far enough away to clear the couplers. One block on each end. These blocks were 1/8" shorter than the car was wide. Using a straight edge, he marked where the 'stripes' were to go on top of these blocks then pushed a straight pin in both blocks at the marks. He did a black, red, black pattern laying the three threads side by side. It was impressive. Turn the car over and do the other side, the stripes will align and match. He tied a fishing weight on both ends (same weight each), on a length of thread that would allow about six inches to hang down on each end. Lay the first one against the pins, lower down to the car side, and let the weights hold it in place. Try this on scrap wood, you will find it easy. Visitors will wonder how you got such fine thin stripes. Enjoy !! -W.D. Wilson
 Kadee Springs
    To keep Kadee knuckle springs from ever falling off your couplers, apply a tiny bit of CA-glue to one end of the spring before putting the spring on.  This bonds the spring to either the knuckle or the coupler, but still allows the spring to freely compress.   Use an X-Acto knife to put the springs in place. -Jeremy Kudlick 
 Kadee Springs
    I can't take credit for this as I saw it on another website. To keep those little bitty springs used for Kadee and Micro-Trains  couplers from flying away, run a thread thru the spring until you get it placed. The thread can then be (carefully) pulled out. -Johnnie C. Scott 
Handrails
    Make your own handrail for F units out of brass wire.  The wire bends easily and is cheap. First drill #77 holes in the engine  body, then bend your wire to fit. 
MU hoses
    Make your own mu hoses out of brass wire, just like  the handrails. Drill holes in the nose and back of your engine and install  the wire. I put a 90 degree bend on one end of the wire to insert into  the hole and the rest of the "hose" just hangs down. I paint the hose black  and the tip silver. 
Windshield Wipers
    Make your own windshield wiper out of fine  wire and a sliver of styrene. Drill a #80 hole centered above the windows.  Bend one end of the wire 90 degrees and glue the sliver of styrene to the  other end. Off set the styrene just a little. Paint the wiper black, the  wire silver. 
Windshields
    To make your windshields look well weathered spray  them will dull coat. This will give you the frosted look, but before you  do this put masking tape the shape of the windshield wiper path and then  spray. After it dries, peel off the tape and your windshield now looks  clean where the wipers go, but dirty everywhere else. 
The masking tape idea would also work for a window washer doing a store front, hanging on a building side, woman doing windows of a house, etc. -W.D.Wilson
Porthole Glass
    I use a hole punch to punch out round pieces  of clear acetate. This makes a perfect fit for the port hole windows (at  least the one I have does, I think they are all about the same size, but  check them out at a office supply store). Then I color the back side of  the acetate with a black magic marker. This gives an effect that what's  behind the glass is dark but doesn't look like you painted the acetate. 
Windows
    For a "weathered window" appearance, try spraying Floquil  Flat finish thinned to 50% lacquer thinner on the INSIDE SURFACE of windows  instead of the outside. That way the window still looks like glass but  appears dirty. -Jim Six 
Crystal Clear Windows
    Use Microscale Crystal Clear. Just use  a small wooden toothpick. Put the end of it in Crystal Clear and then apply  on the periphery of the window and then make a film using your toothpick  horizontally ! That's makes fine 'glazing' windows. -Sainte Eric 
More MU
    This is something picked up from a fellow British Region  NMRA member: Use wire-wrapping wire, available from Radio Shack (Tandy  in the UK) to simulate MU hoses-its cheap and comes in black. Drill No.  77 holes, cut the wire to suitable length, glue it in place. -Alf  Milliken 
Applying Decals
Be sure to see Joe Czapiga's The Art of Applying Decals on the How-To page.
Painting
    To paint the front edges of locomotive steps white use the tip of a round toothpick dipped in the paint in the lid after shaking. -Henry  Stowell 
 Grabs and Hoses
    Since I'm a blues guitarist, I've found that guitar strings make great grab irons and air hoses. A set of medium gauge strings is about $8 bucks and it will last a longggggg time. There are 6 asst sizes from .046 to .010  They're good for locos, pax, and frt cars as well. I've used some of the larger ones for maintenance facility hose and piping. Enjoy! -Ted Tyson Sr 
 Windshield Wiper Streaks
    A subtle yet effective detail are Windshield wiper streaks.  These can be made by simply cutting a small piece of masking tape to the shape of a windshield wiper blade arc and placing it on the windshield in the area of the wiper. This will depict an area wiped clean by the windshield wiper blade. Later spray a light coat of "Dull Cote" across the entire windshield.  When dry, remove the tape and presto you'll have a clean windshield that was just wiped by the windshield wiper blade. The "Dull Cote" will indicate a dusty or dirty windshield, except for the cleaned area that was just wiped clean. -Marty 
Paint Removal
I have been looking for a quick, safe way to remove paint from engines, cabeese, etc. Looking on a model car sight the other night, I found a tip on paint removal- Castrol Super Clean. It works great! In about 30 minutes, my Athearn F7 was clean with the exception of bits and pieces that I took off with an old toothbrush. It does not harm the plastic or styrene. Use it in a well ventilated area, although if you must you can use it a closed shop or garage, just don't stay too long as the fumes will get to you. You must wear gloves when using Castrol Super Clean otherwise it will remove the first layer of skin. Dishwashing gloves should work fine. When you buy the CSC don't buy the spray bottle as it is cheaper by the gallon and easier to use. Go to the local dollar store and buy a quart dish or a little bigger, that should be fine. -Mark Credell
Painting old American Flyer or Lionel Locomotives
    For years I struggled to find just the right paint to use when repainting Lionel & Flyer steam engines. It is a matte black, not gloss, and not flat. I finally found it, and it comes in a spray can that does a fine job, no need for an airbrush. The paint is "High Temperature Barbecue and Stove Paint" by Rustoleum. The Barbecue & stove paint from Krylon also does a good looking job. 
Don't use it on plastic though . . . I have a couple of tenders that look like they were made out of leather because of the way the paint reacts, even with that tough Lionel tender plastic. -Geoff Worstell














